Mustang and Fords
May 2007
GIVE 'EM A LINE - Replace Those Rusty Brake Lines With CNC-Formed Lines From Classic Tube
By: Wayne Cook
Photos by:
Photos by Wayne Cook
Our '65 Comet has become something of a test mule and has needed a complete brake-line overhaul for some time. When the old 404 model of the compact Mercury had a Rod & Custom Motorsports front suspension installed, most of the old brake hardware was removed from the front of the car. We have a new master cylinder on the firewall but not much else. Moving the car around has been touchy business without brakes.
What Does It Cost?
Classic Tube Brake Line Kit
OE steel, PN CM1002 $125
Stainless steel, PN CM1002 SS $150
Source:
Classic Tube
Dept. MF
80 Rotech Dr.
Lancaster, NY 14086
800-882-3711
classictube.com
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Knowing we need replacement lines and wanting the same great fit as the original lines that were put on the car 40 years ago, we looked into the CNC-bent lines from Classic Tube. Classic Tube lines are formed on CNC (computer numeric controlled) tubing benders with the precise length, bend, and fittings as the originals. Available in both OE steel and stainless steel, we decided the OE-steel version of the kit would be adequate since our car is unfinished underneath. In addition, a new set of braided-steel brake hoses, which were included in the Rod & Custom Motorsports kit, will also be incorporated into the job.
This is our new brake-line kit from Classic Tube. The line to the rear axle has two shipping bends. When straightened, the shape of the line is designed to conform to the shape of the car's underbody. The kit also includes the coiled armor cover in the correct factory locations.
Here's a pair of new brake hoses for our car that were included in the Rod & Custom Motorsports front suspension kit previously installed. The braided-steel construction will give the car a firmer brake pedal, as these lines don't expand nearly as much as stock rubber lines when the pressure is on. Classic Tube offers similar braided-steel hoses in its DOT-approved StopFlex line.
The banjo fittings will join the braided hoses to the Mustang II-style calipers on the Rod & Custom setup.
When the inner fenders and shock towers on the Comet were removed for the front suspension installation, all the front brake fittings went with them. Here is a new junction block, also supplied by Classic Tube, for our front brakes.
The brake line to the rear axle has been disconnected since the front suspension installation. Here we begin by disconnecting the hard steel line from the flex hose at the mounting bracket.
Begin removing the brake line on the rear axle using a line wrench at the rear distribution block. To break the fitting loose, we supported the block with an open-ended wrench while applying force to the fitting.
Although we aren't interested in saving the old fittings, a line wrench is a must on a job like this. If you round off the brake line fitting, you're in for a lot of extra work. Although the fittings going into the rear-wheel cylinders were stubborn, we eventually got them off without having to resort to drastic measures.
The brake line going to the rear of the car is supported by several clips and screw-attached clamps. These clips are usually opened by squeezing the center of the clip. Here the long rear line is removed from underneath the car.
The factory retaining clip on the axlehousing must be pried open to remove the line. When the new line is in place, we'll tap it closed with a hammer.
We leaned up the rear distribution block, and here we begin the installation of the new brake lines. We didn't tighten down the fastener for the junction block in order to leave enough room for the line wrench to go over the fitting. The fastener for the distribution block is also the vent for the rear axlehousing.
Now the longer right-side line goes into position. The location of the angle bends and length of the tubes are accurate to the application due to the CNC-bending techniques employed by Classic Tube using the original patterns.
On the way out to the wheel, the line rests inside the factory retaining clamp. Take it easy with the hammer when closing this clamp or you're liable to pinch the new line.
Here the rear brake line is attached to the wheel cylinder at the backing plate. We went over all the fittings on the rear brakes but will double check for leaks during the bleeding process. The distribution-block fastener/vent tube was tightened all the way, and the vent hose was replaced.
Here is a view of the finished rear-axle brake-line install. It's apparent how well the lines fit the intended application.
Moving to the front of our car, we begin installing the braided hoses. We attach the lines to the inner fender itself rather than using a separate support bracket. Check to see that the lines are long enough, don't bind in any way during the full side-to-side travel of the front wheels, and don't touch the tires or any suspension parts.
On the inside of the fender, the nut is installed over the threaded end of the brake hose and then tightened down snug to secure the line to the body of the car.
Here the banjo bolt is installed into the caliper end of the line. We didn't use any type of tape or sealant. To ease line routing, you can leave this fitting loose until mounted on the caliper.
This hollow bolt has fluid ports to receive the pressure from the banjo fitting. Don't forget the two washers or a major leak will develop here.
The brake-hose attachment port for the Mustang II caliper is on the bottom of the unit. Before this photo was taken, we removed a red plastic plug. Any kind of contamination will wreak havoc on a braking system because the passages involved are very small.
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